Olive oil production has played an important role in Greece’s history and culture. During classical times in Athens, the olive tree, whose branches were used in ancient rituals, was considered a gift from the wise and brave goddess Athena, and according to Aristotle, anyone who destroyed or uprooted an olive tree faced the death penalty.
In an exclusive interview with Greek Reporter, Vassilis Frantzolas, an olive oil expert from Athens, Greece, speaks about the significance and future of olive oil production in Greece and provides an overview of olive oil consumption health benefits as well as the various types of olive oils and their quality.
Historical significance of olive oil in Greece
While the first surviving amphorae of olive oil date back to 3500 BC, olive oil production in ancient Greece is thought to have begun much earlier. It is widely believed that the first cultivation of olive trees took place on the Greek island of Crete, where archaeological evidence shows that olives were cultivated as early as 4500 BC.
Greek extra virgin olive oils are known to be among the best in the world, with the country ranking third in olive oil production globally, producing around 15 percent of the total world output. What makes Greece unique compared to other producing countries is that 70 to 80 percent of all olive oil produced in the country is classified as excellent quality extra virgin olive oil.
Vassilis Frantzolas, an olive oil quality tester and consultant, is primarily occupied with training seminars pertaining to the production of quality olive oil. He has written and/or published three books, including Modern Techniques of Olive Cultivation and Production of Quality Olive Oil and Modern Olive Tree Pruning Techniques by Riccardo Gucci and Claudio Cantini.
The Frantzolas family has been active in the olive oil industry since 1932 and originate from Lygourio, Argolis. Vassilis’ studies include civil engineering (M.Sc. NTU), construction management (M.Sc.), and food policy (M.Sc. City University, London). Today, he conducts olive oil seminars and writes related books.
“I have been working in the area of teaching people how to produce high-quality olive oil,” he said. “If you’re unable to spot any defects in olive oil, then you won’t be able to produce quality oil. You cannot even export olive oils because it’s easy to promote a defective product. Many people claim we have the best olive oil in the world.”
Health benefits of olive oil
The consumption of olive oil provides substantial health benefits. The Seven Countries Study was the first to evaluate the links between diet, lifestyle, and the risk of heart disease. Recent evidence published in the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences (PNAS) journal shows that the combination of olive oil and leafy salads or vegetables is what makes the Mediterranean diet nutritiously advantageous, as the formation of nitro fatty acids between the two food groups lowers blood pressure.
A recent discovery announced at Nutrition 2023, the yearly gathering of the American Society for Nutrition in Boston, reveals that adding olive oil to your meals can provide various benefits, such as protecting your heart and boosting cognitive function.
Moreover, a mere spoonful of this Mediterranean staple each day might lower your chances of succumbing to dementia by 28 percent. Prior to this study, nobody had ever examined the connection between olive oil or the risk of death related to dementia.
Frantzolas emphasizes the numerous benefits we receive from consuming olive oil rather than just seed oils. “There are two main benefits to olive oil,” he said. “The first is related to the polyphenols and tocopherols, which is vitamin E. Secondly, it’s the proportion of fatty acids; monounsaturated fatty acids make up about 75 percent of its composition, compared to seed oils that contain only 15 to 25 percent.”
Understanding the quality of the oil
Frantzolas notes that consumers must understand the differences between extra virgin olive oil, virgin olive oil, and refined olive oil, as well as which categories are considered highest and lowest quality.
Extra virgin olive oil is produced from pure olives using the cold-pressing method. This is the highest quality olive oil with an impeccable taste and aroma. Virgin olive oil is slightly inferior in quality to extra virgin, though with fine flavors and aromas. The content of free fatty acids (oleic acid) is limited to two grams for every one hundred grams of olive oil.
Simple olive oil, which lacks any specific designation, has a lighter color than the above categories. It is a blend of virgin and refined olive oil (more on this below), with a maximum acidity of one percent. Producers derive refined olive oil from virgin olive oil through various physical and chemical treatments. This type has very low acidity (maximum 0.3 percent) and a clear pale yellow color. It lacks the characteristic aroma and taste of virgin olive oil, along with many components that make virgin olive oil important for health.
Frantzolas states that it is not in people’s best interest to consume refined olive oil for lower costs when they can find extra virgin olive oil at similar price points. “In the first glass, I will pour some extra virgin olive oil [newly] opened from a bottle. The second glass contains…refined olive oil. We don’t recommend buying refined olive oil during this period of high prices. Why is that?” he inquired. “Because the price is very similar to extra virgin, and its quality is not comparable. It lacks the phenols and benefits found in extra virgin oil.”
The future of olive oil production in Greece
Greece is set to surpass Italy and become Europe’s second-largest olive oil producer just after Spain. The report estimates that production in the 2022/23 crop year will amount to 208,000 tons. This would see Italy fall from second to third place among olive oil producers in Europe. Greece could exceed last year’s yield and produce more than 300,000 tons, thereby surpassing Italy.
As the olive harvest gets underway in Greece, expectations for production are boosting producers’ hopes for a rewarding crop. High producer prices remain steadily above €4.50 per kilogram (about $5/kg) for extra virgin olive oil this year.
“Greece produces very good olive oil, but I wouldn’t say it’s the best in the world,” Frantzolas said. “In general terms, I personally prefer Italian olive oil because they have dedicated significant efforts over the last 30 to 40 years to producing very high-quality oils. Spanish producers also make high-quality olive oil, having focused their efforts over the past 20 years to dominate the markets. I’ve heard many times that Spanish and Italian companies buy large quantities of high-quality olive oil in bulk from Greece and blend it with their own oils.”
Frantzolas also explained that olive oil in glass bottles is always of better quality than that in plastic bottles. He advises consumers to avoid olive oils stored in plastic bottles and highlighted ways to preserve olive oil quality.
